Melissa Clark’s Spicy Calamari With Israeli Couscous

I’m not one for posting other’s recipes unless I somehow riff on them. But tonight I am singing the praises from my apartment that smells like lemon, garlic, butter and the sea—and I only have NY Times writer Melissa Clark to thank.

Her book, Cook This Now was just released in October, and it’s everything I like in a cookbook. The recipes are fast (which is nice for after-work preparation), flavorful, and even a little healthy (yes, Ms. Clark I noticed all those whole wheat ingredients!). Each chapter is separated by month, so you cook with what’s in season. Even though this recipe is from the February chapter, it shouldn’t be missed at any time of the year.

Since copyright issues are sticky, I’ll just give you the basics and implore you to go out and buy her book. I’d offer to lend you mine, but I’m already making 3 recipes from it this week…I don’t think it’s going anywhere soon. This recipe reminds me why I love seafood-it’s light but not dull, and almost demands to be washed down with a glass of crisp white wine. The (kind of) recipe:

Cook Israeli couscous according to the package (I like Bob\’s Red Mill) and toss with  a little olive oil. Heat more olive oil in the largest pan you have, and throw in a pound or so of cut calamari, red pepper flakes, parsley, basil, garlic and butter. Toss until opaque, about 4 minutes. Finish with an abundance of lemon. Hide the leftovers from your dining partner.

Porter-Soaked Refried Beans

* Adapted from Mark Bittman’s Food Matters Cookbook *

I’m not a big recipe repeater. My dinner cravings vary week to week, so I don’t often cook something more than once. Then, a few weeks ago, I had some leftover pinto beans from a pot I’d made, so I set out to make Mark Bittman’s Refried Beans recipe I’d been meaning to try. With what I had in my fridge (bell peppers, dark beer and half an onion), I cooked up my own version. The result was a flavorful—a combination of warm spices, rich beer and the smooth texture that defines the best kind of refried beans (in my eyes). And without overselling it, I’ll just say that I made a pot of pintos this week just so I could use the leftovers for this recipe.

Ingredients:

¼ olive oil

4 cups cooked pinto beans

1 bell pepper, chopped

½ an onion, chopped

1 tablespoon of cumin

½ tablespoon of chili powder

¼ teaspoon of cayenne

kosher salt and freshly-cracked pepper

¼ cup of dark beer (such as a stout or porter), more as needed

Method:

Warm the olive oil over medium heat in a medium saucepan or skillet.

When the olive oil is hot, add the beans. Mash the beans with a potato masher or fork until they’re broken down and about 75% smooth, about 4-5 minutes.

Add the bell pepper and onion and stir thoroughly. Add the spices and the salt and pepper. Raise the heat slightly to medium high. Keep mashing the mixture until the vegetables have softened, about 5 more minutes.

As the mixture becomes dry, add the beer to achieve your desired consistency (I enjoy my refried beans pretty smooth).

Taste your beans, and adjust the spices to your preferences. Remove from heat, and serve.

Serving suggestions: Tucked in burritos, along side brown rice, with cilantro, Dabbed with salsa next to eggs for breakfast. Tonight, I piled them in homemade tortillas, topped with chard, cilantro pesto and hot sauce.

Because None Of Us Have Time

Often, the rebuttal to cooking  is, “I would love to! But I have no time.” As my own life shifts from graduate student to a full time office folk, I can commiserate.

So I thought I would direct you busy people (and remind myself) of the “fast” category on my blog (over there on the right side). These are recipes you can pull together the night before work or in about ten-fifteen extra minutes in the morning. Also, some thoughts about fast cooking:

1) It helps to plan. Menu planning can feel a little OCD, but I learned a lot from local food writer Kathleen Bauer in this post.

The post on her blog, GoodstuffNW suggests cooking big batches of dishes that don’t require a lot of effort on your day off. That way, you have something you can reach for each night when you get home, or on your way out the door in the morning. Lately for me, that’s been a big batch of beans (cooked on the stove-so cheap & much more flavorful than canned), a batch of steel cut oatmeal, and usually some kind of seasonal produce (last week it was green beans with shallots, garlic, white wine and tomatoes).

2) Don’t be afraid to be simple. Just because you don’t have an hour to pull together a 50 step recipe with 35 ingredients doesn’t mean your food won’t be great. The best meals embrace simplicity, anyway like toast with garlic and a fresh tomato, or popcorn with olive oil and salt.

3) On the other hand, creativity is your friend. There is absolutely no need to stick to traditional. While leftover roasted vegetables, brown rice and soy sauce may not show up on a brunch menu anytime soon (or maybe it will, this is PDX after all), if it fills you up til lunch, it’s okay by me.

What are your go-to busy meals/ or what do you wish you knew how to prepare quickly?

Mary’s Salad

In my hometown of Santa Rosa, California there are few people who don’t have a childhood memory involving Mary’s Pizza Shack. At Mary’s, there were a few things you could always count on. You knew you could get breadsticks to nibble while you waited for your meal. You also knew that in order to retrieve said breadsticks, you had to make a journey up to the counter where teenage guys were tossing dough rounds into the air (oh what a shame when that plastic breadstick bin was empty!). It was a given that you’d  run into someone you knew, and that there was always some sporting event on the televisions. And even though your Dad told you not to, you’d always fill up on the warm sourdough they’d bring to your table with the butter strategically placed under the loaf to soften it. And while the good pizza (great even) was also a part of the Mary’s equation, it’s the Mary’s House Salad I still go back for to this day while visiting.

The salad is a standard Italian American antipasti plate when I think about it: salami, mushrooms, beans, vegetables and a tiny mound of grated cheese to top it off. While some of my friends swore by ranch or raspberry vinaigrette, my heart always belonged to their tangy Italian dressing. I set out to find a recipe (I don’t buy the bottled stuff) for that dressing, and ended up creating my own. The salad recipe below is slightly tweaked from Mary’s original, but it still captures the same spirit.

Italian Dressing, My Way

1 tablespoon garlic powder

1 tablespoon onion powder

1 tablespoon sugar

2 tablespoon dried oregano

2 tablespoons of kosher salt

1 tablespoon dried parsley

2 tablespoons of fresh basil (cut in a chiffonade style)

1/4 cup apple cider vinegar

2/3 cup of canola oil

1 tablespoon of water

Method

Mix all the dry ingredients together in a closeable ziplock bag. Take two tablespoons of the herb mix and place it in a bowl with the basil. Whisk in vinegar, oil and water. Put away herb mixture for later use.

My Mary’s Salad

3 cups of red leaf lettuce

1/2 cup of kidney beans

1/2 cup of canned beets

1/2 cup of canned green beans

2 very fresh tomatoes (I like Early Girls), sliced

3 large carrots, shredded

5 slices of salami, thinly sliced

1/4 cup shredded provolone or mozzarella

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Method

Mix together the vegetables and legumes in a large bowl, toss with  1/4 cup of dressing. Stir in the salami and top with shredded cheese, season to taste. Serves 2-3 people (with plenty extra salad dressing).

Très Affordable

Find my published version of this article in the Vanguard  here

In the past year, Portland’s French scene has grown significantly, with three new spots

Photo by Saria Dy

popping up in various corners of town: there’s downtown’s Little Bird, North Portland’s Cocotte and St. Jack on Southeast Clinton. It’s hard not to feel left out when your slightly slim wallet won’t allow you to try them all in the same month—not to mention keeping up with old favorites like Paley’s Place. Yet, it’s important to remember that while some parts of France are stereotyped (or known for) their big attitudes, good French food is not actually about ego or even about being expensive. Simplicity and quality ingredients are all you need to enjoy a fabulous French meal, in your home or at a restaurant. Here are three ways to consume French excellence without having to pay a Paris-sized bill.

Evoe

This appendage to specialty food shop Pastaworks doesn’t primarily serve French dishes, but their food holds the true spirit of the cuisine. The chefs at Evoe build sandwiches from the fresh produce, carefully crafted charcuterie and array of cheeses from the next-door shop in an uncomplicated yet careful way. Sitting belly up to the counter or at the few sparse tables in the room, you’ll sip rosé while the sun pours in through the window that you will use to spy on Hawthorne shoppers. Each sandwich is elegant and intelligently built; rarely do you leave feeling uncomfortably stuffed.

What to mange: The Parisienne sandwich (thinly sliced ham on a light-as-air baguette) or croque madame (open-faced sandwich with a fried egg and a dab of creamy Mornay sauce).

Price: $7–10

3731 SE Hawthorne Blvd.

Open Wednesday–Sunday, noon–7 p.m.

503-232-1010

Chez You

While it’s always fun to go out and let others cook for you, sometimes the best way to eat French is to cook French. I’m not saying you need to pull out every recipe in Julia Childs’ “Mastering The Art Of French Cooking,” but you’d be surprised what a quick jaunt to the market will do for even the shyest of home cooks. Head to Whole Foods, grab a Ken’s Artisan Bakery baguette, some good cheeses and perhaps a hard cider and take them home to enjoy. If you have some extra cash, asking the deli to thinly slice you a little ham wouldn’t hurt either.

What to mange: Ken’s Artisan Bakery Baguette, Le carrer d’affnois (ridiculously creamy double brie) and some Gruyere for good measure.

Price:$7–12

Whole Foods Market

1250 NW Couch St.

Open 7 a.m.–10 p.m., seven days a week

503-525-4343

St. Jack

Amongst the new French garçons in town, St. Jack stands out. With lovely mood lighting and a classy bar seating area complete with photos of stunning French actresses from the past, happy hour feels a whole lot more elegant than PBR and onion rings. The happy hour menu at St. Jack carries dishes for seafood enthusiasts and carnivores alike. To start, try the butter-lettuce salad, carefully dressed with Dijon vinaigrette and tossed with hunks of avocado and thinly sliced radishes. Later, you can get a decently sized bowl of light broth, creamy clams—each stuffed with garlic—that’s served with French bread for dipping. The burger is over-the-top-memorable with a juicy patty, lardons (for $1 extra) and Gruyere, dabbed with a slightly spicy mustard sauce to balance the richness. On the side are parsley-sprinkled frites with a generous amount of aioli for dunking.

What to mange:Le Hamburger with

Gruyere & bacon

Price:$13-15

2039 SE Clinton St.

Happy Hour: Monday–Saturday 4–5:30 p.m.

503-360-1281

Quiche, Revised

Find my published version of this article in the Vanguard here

While quiche had its most glorified time in the ’80s, there is a reason why many home

cooks still are serving it up today. For me, it’s because my mother made a damn good one and it was the one of the first dishes I learned to cook. Others like it because of its simplicity: add vegetables and meat, cream, herbs and lots of eggs in a pie shell—45 minutes later, you have silk custard on a buttery crust.

While I still agree with this mindset, I recently set out to revamp my trusted quiche recipe so I can use up more of the vegetables that seem to pile up in my fridge at the end of the week. I cut down on cream and eggs to make more room for vegetables, which allows for more texture contrast in the filling. I still use a premade crust (though without a bunch of artificial ingredients in the list) for time’s sake, but if baking is your thing, by all means make your own.

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 cup asparagus, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 3 large leeks, cleaned and sliced crosswise
• 1 cup Gruyere, grated
• 3 eggs
• 1 cup half and half
• 3/4 cup chopped herbs (I used thyme, parsley and chives)
• Salt and pepper
• 1 pie crust (I like whole wheat)
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Method

Preheat your oven to 375 degrees.

Bring the olive oil to medium heat in a large skillet. When it’s hot, add the asparagus and leeks. Sauté until the asparagus is tender and the leeks are soft, about 8–10 minutes.

Meanwhile, mix half and half, eggs and cheese in a small bowl with a fork or whisk. Whisk until the mixture is uniformly yellow. Stir in the herbs, salt and pepper.

Spread the mustard across the bottom of the piecrust so it’s an even layer. Next, add the vegetables, and top with the egg mixture. Bake for 30–40 minutes or until a toothpick or fork comes out clean.

Bridesmaids: This Is What A Comedy Looks Like

Find my published version of this article in the Vanguard here

When the trailer came out for the recently released comedy “Bridesmaids,” supporters of female comedians everywhere held their collective breath. Could this be the film rebuttal to the exhausting “woman aren’t funny” argument?

After its $24 million opening weekend, crowded theaters filled with both men and women’s roaring laughter, I’d like to say yes, I think it has done just that. Director Paul Feig (“Freaks & Geeks”) and producer Judd Apatow are not the only ones to thank, though. There are many things going right in this film, and the best way to describe it is to say that comedy comes first, and the “rom” part of the equation is far down the list—after friendship, intelligence and wit.

Annie (Kristen Wiig) has lost her cake bakery in Milwaukee to the recession and can’t seem to catch a break. When her childhood friend (Maya Rudolph) asks her to be her maid of honor, her life spirals, and yet the comedic opportunity ascends.

Enter the dream-team of female comedians to help get the job done—the wedding party. First, there’s Helen (Rose Byrne), who is Wiig’s competition for maid- of- honor-and-best- friend, and the two have remarkable comedic chemistry. Starting with a fight for best speech at the bridal shower—ending in the two competitively speaking in Thai and then Spanish, both actresses are not afraid to jump into cringe-worthy situations (slightly reminiscent of “Meet The Parents”) head on, and it’s working.

Writers Annie Mumolo and Wiig haven’t stopped with the hilarious competition between these two women—they’ve also developed Megan (Melissa McCarthy) who steals the entire film with her satisfying line between raunch and poignancy.

The rest of the wedding party, played by Wendi McLendon (“Reno 911”) and Ellie Kemper (“The Office”), act as small breaks in the comedic story line for even more jokes, keeping the stream of comedy flowing—namely the scene in which the wedding party travels to Vegas by plane. The pessimistic light McLendon shines on parenting mixed with the Disney fascination from Kemper is smart and entertaining.

Yet, the film isn’t just a vehicle for laughs—there is something that hits close to home for many audiences in Annie’s question of her own path. In a moment where sometimes going out and getting the job you want isn’t as easy as it should be, we find ourselves relating with Annie, who is now stuck working at a cheap jewelry store, randomly (and hilariously) attempting to talk customers out of being too optimistic.

The men in the film should not go unmentioned—John Hamm, as Wiig’s “friend with benefits” Ted, plays a role that is truthful, malicious and hysterical.

Rhodes (Chris O’Dowd), Annie’s potential romantic partner, is likable and funny in a more realistic way than the male-model equivalents who typically show up in romantic comedies. It’s nice to see stereotypes being broken on both sides of the gender spectrum.

Yet the best thing about this film is that every time it starts to veer in the direction of the tired romantic comedy tropes, Mumolo and Wiig’s fantastically smart writing steers it back to comedy. In an early scene where Wiig and Rudolph have breakfast, a conversation that quickly turns to the subject of men is relieved by the two women making faces at each other with food in their teeth. Rudolph and Wiig’s time on “SNL” has given them the opportunity work off one another comedically, and many of the best scenes are the two together.

In another scene, Wiig bakes herself one lone cupcake and the score is headed toward sad-day sappiness, but her ginormous bite and facial expression allow you to know that the writers are in on the joke and the film is once again saved by comedy.

It can’t be promised that this film is the final answer and suddenly all doors for female comedians have opened wide, but it is definitely a turn in the right direction.

Good Morning, Accanto

Find my published version of this article in the Vanguard here

Portland breakfast restaurants are a bummer. I’m not talking about the food, or even the

Photo by Saria Dy

service when I say that. What I mean is, if it’s the weekend and you and your friends want any kind of breakfast—from plates of potatoes washed down with Bloody Marys or a special three-course experience with house-made bacon and champagne, you’re out of luck unless you’re ready to sit and wait.

But, don’t give up just yet.

Comune Accanto, also known as Accanto to most of its diners, has a brunch that hasn’t quite been tapped yet. Saturdays are slower than Sundays, though it is possible to come in on either weekend day and fully enjoy your breakfast without a huge side of standing in the rain.

The lack of line is certainly not the only reason to brunch at Accanto. The food served is elegant and uncomplicated, yet it’s completely affordable at the same time. For example, on a recent menu you can find an asparagus frittata with morels, leeks and truffled mascarpone for $9, compared to other spots in Portland where you’ll get a big plate of eggs, potatoes, and toast for the same price. Accanto delivers—without the gut bomb, and once again, without the line.

Perhaps you do want a hangover-fighting brunch on your plate. Not a problem. You can still get rich dishes like panatone French toast or croque madame and wash it down with the Belmont Bloody Mary—which is made with tomato thyme juice.

It’s just that all of these dishes are made with a little more restraint. Your brunch will still be filling, but in that satisfying “I just had some really well-prepared food” kind of way.

Other standout dishes include the bucatini carbonara, which happens to capture the exact definition of al dente with just enough guanciale (that’s Italian for fatty perfect pork). Also try the breakfast strata, stuffed with greens and creamy chevre, served atop a swirl of marinara. And make sure to get your hands on any breads—whether it be sage biscuits or brioche—they’re all house-made and light.

On the lighter side, start with the apricot mimosa, which is made with the apricot purée that many Italians start their day with, then finished with prosecco and amaretto. For your meal, try the creamy polenta with sautéed greens and a poached egg, made special with just a drizzle of chili oil.

So, for a lineless, well thought-out meal, Accanto could be your new brunch spot. Just don’t tell anyone else.

Israeli Couscous With Dijon Thyme Sauce

Find my published version of this article in the Vanguard here

I’ll admit it—I’m a little bit of a homer. Since I grew up in California, I instantly love

Photo by Karl Kuchs

101cookbooks.com author Heidi Swanson from San Francisco. I’ve been addicted to the recipes from her recent book, “Supernatural Everyday,” since I bought it less than a month ago.

And then, I like to claim my Oregon side as well—which explains my devotion to Bob\’s Red Mill and all of his whole-grain products. From steel-cut oats to farina, the man has not let me down with solid, reliable ingredients.

The following recipe is a middle ground between these two devotions I have—Swanson’s book has a popcorn recipe with a similar dressing, and I used the Israeli couscous from Bob’s Red Mill (also known as pearl couscous). Wherever you come from, this dish is flavorful with its tangy herb-flecked dressing and ridiculously simple to put together. And of course, it highlights the best parts of the West Coast.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup Israeli couscous, preferably whole wheat
• 1/4 cup mixed herbs (I like chives, thyme and parsley)
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 large cucumber, sliced
• 1 cup of spinach, torn into pieces
• Coarse salt (like fleur de sel) and freshly ground pepper

Bring 1 1/4 cup of water to a boil. Salt the water and stir in the couscous. Let the couscous simmer covered until it’s al dente or until the water is absorbed, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small glass, whisk together the herbs, Dijon and olive oil.

In a large bowl, toss together the spinach, cucumbers, cooked couscous and the dressing. Season the salad liberally with salt and pepper. Serves one to two.

Portland Indie Wine & Food Festival: Recap

find my original article here

Here in Portland, we appreciate the little guy—we have bumper stickers reminding us to

Irving Street Kitchen Chef Sarah Schafer (photo by Drew Martig)

love our farmer, our brewer, our baker. Last Saturday, the Portland Indie Wine & Food Festival highlighted this kind of attention with yet another successful event (its sixth, to be exact).

Co-founders Lisa Donoughe of food public-relations firm Watershed Communications and Catherine Healy of Flint Design Company rounded up 51 wineries and 17 of Portland’s best restaurants to remind us of the greatness that can come from the little guy. The event was held in the stunning Bison Building in inner Northeast Portland, with high ceilings and lots of natural light. The space seemed to be made for such a tasteful, classy event.

So, what qualifies as an indie winery? This kind of winery sells wines that are produced in small batches, so small in fact that many of these wines haven’t seen grocery store shelves nor Portland’s wine lists just yet. Wines made this way feature attention to detail and quality, and all are filled with heart. On Saturday, it was evident that each wine-maker, whether it was the 37 festival alumni or the 14 new guys on the scene, were all just grateful to be sharing their wines with Portland. Here are some of the highlights:

Dion Vineyards served a memorable and refreshing Pinot Gris that took a nice break from some of the heavier reds being poured.

Trinity Vineyards had a 2007 Syrah, which had silky mouthfeel and just enough tannins.

Utopia poured their 2008 Ribbon Ridge Estate Pinot Noir, which was reminiscent of dark berries with a complex body.

White Rose Estates stood out with their especially rich, jammy 2008 Dundee Hills Estate Pinot Noir.

Although the wineries were certainly the stars of the event, it’s hard to ignore the list of fantastic restaurants present, all headed by the actual owners and executive chefs. Some of the food standouts were:

Irving Street kitchen’s chef Sarah Schafer offered up a well-seasoned meatball made from veal, beef, and pork in a sauce au poivre. A smear of creamy polenta added texture to this heavenly bite.

Metrovino’s chef, Greg Denton, definitely deserved an award for the most unique, flavor-packed bite: He prepared a tender goat confit atop crispy flatbread with spiced goat’s milk yogurt and a strawberry mint salad.

Cheesemonger and owner of Cheese Bar Steve Jones cooked up melty grilled cheese with cheddar and earthy mushrooms.

Biwa’s Gabe Rosen served up refreshing lettuce wraps filled with braised pork bo-ssam and Japanese pickled vegetables that were a nice break from heartier dishes.

Simpatica Dining Hall & Catering’s Jason Owen served a crostini topped with a rich bourbon chicken-liver mousse and a tangy pickled rhubarb.

The Country Cat Dinnerhouse & Bar’s owner and chef Jackie Sappington brought dessert first (and likely many trips following that) with Ovaltine ice cream studded with salted caramel pieces.

Lastly, chocolatier Julian Rose from Moonstruck Chocolate Company brought two kinds of luxurious truffles—one dark chocolate and one light.